We picked up our rent-a-car in Cagliari and began our journey around the island, one that would take us three weeks and a couple thousand miles to complete.
We heard that the southern coast of Sardinia had some of the most secluded coves and beautiful beaches on the island so, on our way to our Bed & Breakfast on Sardinia's west coast (where we'll stay four nights), we decided to take the long way and check out some of those coves and beaches. As we left Cagliari and headed west, we drove past the ancient marshes and salt flats that extend around the outskirts of Cagliari, which after years of neglect and deterioration have recently become nature reserves containing a rich and varied fauna, including egrets, purple herons, grebes and other migratory aquatic birds including flamingos! A half hour or so west of the marshes and salt flats, we reached the city of Laguna di Nora, which had a beautiful sheltered cove, a medieval tower, and ancient ruins.
The ancient city of Nora was founded under Carthaginian rule in the 9th - 8th Centuries BC. The town quickly became Sardinia's most important city, a role it continued to enjoy under the Romans, who made it the capital of the Roman province of Sardinia in 238 AD. In the early Middle Ages, the Spanish occupied the land, building watch towers at various points along the coast. But Saracen raids and the lack of fertile land forced the inhabitants to abandon the land in the Middle Ages. As a result, Nora's three ports were gradually covered up by the sea.
The ruins of the Roman Terme di Levante, baths decorated mosaics dating from the 4th Century can been seen in the foreground and the Spanish Torre del Coltelazzo is in the background.
So we hopped back in the car and continued driving along the southern coast to the next cove that we had read about, Baia Chia, one of the most picturesque protected coves we have ever seen. Just inland from this cove is the town of Chia, a hamlet set among orchards and fig trees.
So we decided to climb up to the tower to get a better view of the area.
From up there, though, I looked towards the open Mediterranean and saw colors and shades of blue that I've never seen in the Caribbean or anywhere else in the world. It looked almost like there were lights under the water. The large rocks under the water further evidence the clarity of the water.
Near the foot of the tower are the remains of the ancient Phoenician city of Bithia, mentioned in the writings of Ptolemy, which are currently being excavated.
Along the way, we came across our first herd of goats, grazing on the side of the road. We had heard that Sardinia's rocky, mountainous terrain along the coast is more suitable for raising goats (as opposed to cows or sheep which prefer the flatter plains of the interior). As a result, goat (or capra) is a popular main course (or secondo piato) in Sardinia and we should expect to see it on traditional Sardinian menus.
We then came upon Porto and Capo Malfatano, a series of bays, filled with glistening acquamarine water and dark but colorful rocks scattered along the sea floor, separated by rocky, pine-forest-covered promontories and nearby islands.
The sand was fine, soft and off-white in color, and the water absolutely crystal clear. So amazed with the clarity, I filled a clear plastic cup with it and could not possibly distinguish it from a cup full of bottled water! Casandra tested the water first. She reported that it was cold but refreshing while I continued my photo shoot. The gradually deepening, sand covered yet firm sea floor, surrounded by dark colorful rocks made it seem like we were in a swimming pool, but one filled with drinkable water!
It was later in the day and the sun had gone down a bit so the water didn't glow the same shades of neon blue and green as it did at Malfatano but it was beautiful all the same.
And we did spot from the road one of the prettiest and secluded coves we'd seen all day, overlooked by one of those towers, Torre Budelli. You can even see how the rocks in the bay (the dark splotches in the water) surround and protect the cove and create a "swimming pool" like the one we went in earlier.
We didn't think we'd have time to climb down to that cove, plus it was getting late and we still had to find our B&B in a small town near Sardinia's west coast called Arbus. So we headed inland a bit, cutting across the southwest corner of the island, and began our drive north. While the southern coast is supposed to be the most natural and unspoiled, the west coast where we are heading is supposed to be the greenest.
We didn't think we'd have time to climb down to that cove, plus it was getting late and we still had to find our B&B in a small town near Sardinia's west coast called Arbus. So we headed inland a bit, cutting across the southwest corner of the island, and began our drive north. While the southern coast is supposed to be the most natural and unspoiled, the west coast where we are heading is supposed to be the greenest.
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